Showing posts with label Preparedness / Survival Skills. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Preparedness / Survival Skills. Show all posts
Friday, January 27, 2012
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Friday, December 30, 2011
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Bubble Wrap Warmth for your Home
This nifty idea came from Builditsolar.com. You spray a fine mist of water on a window, then stick a sheet of bubble wrap to it. It’s almost magic the way it stays on, and you can have fun popping a few bubbles along the way. And it still lets in light, so it’s great for bathroom windows and so forth. Allegedly the bubble wrap roughly doubles the R-value of a single-glazed window. On my old windows, I can feel the difference in insulation immediately. This was a free project for me, as I had a pile of bubblewrap saved in the basement from something. But you could <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?initialSearch=1&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=bubble+wrap&x=18&y=20
“buy some cheap. And! You can use it again next year!
h/t Andrea Sisco
“buy some cheap. And! You can use it again next year!
h/t Andrea Sisco
Explanation of the Three Survival levels
Survival training has many components, mental competence and physical fitness being two. Mental competence includes the skills listed in this article, as well as the ability to admit the existence of a crisis, overcome panic, and think clearly. Physical fitness includes, among other abilities, carrying loads over long distances on rough terrain. Theoretical knowledge of survival skills is useful only if it can be applied effectively in the wilderness. Almost all Survival Skills are environment specific and require training in a particular environment.
Survival training may be broken down into three types, or schools; Modern Wilderness Survival, Bushcraft, and Primitive Survival Techniques.
Modern Wilderness Survival teaches the skills needed to survive Short-Term (1 to 4 Days) and Medium-Term (4 to 40 Days) survival situations.
"Bushcraft" is the combination of Modern Wilderness Survival and useful Primitive Survival Techniques. It normally splits its skill acquisition between Medium-Term Survival Techniques (4 to 40 Days) and Long-Term Survival Techniques (40 Days Plus).
Primitive Survival Techniques or "Primitive Living" teaches the skills needed to survive over the Long-Term (40 days plus). Many primitive technology skills require much more practice and may be more environment specific.
Several organizations offer wilderness survival training. Course ranges from one day to field courses lasting as long as a month. In addition to teaching survival techniques for conditions of limited food, water, and shelter, many organizations that teach bushcraft and Primitive Survival seek to engender appreciation and understanding of the lifestyles of pre-industrialized cultures.
There are several books that teach one how to survive in dangerous situations, and schools train children what to do in the event of an earthquake or fire. Some cities also have contingency plans in case of a major disaster, such as hurricanes or tornadoes.
Different training is necessary to survive in different climates. Although one technique may work in a dry sub-Saharan area, the same methods may actually be a detriment to health in an arctic climate.
Mental preparedness
Commentators note that the mind and its processes are critical to survival. It is said that the will to live in a life and death situation often separates those that live and those that do not. Stories of heroic feats of survival by regular people with little or no training but a strong will to live are not uncommon. Laurence Gonzales in his book Deep Survival: Who Lives, Who Dies and Why describes the story of a young teenage girl named Juliane Köpcke who is the victim of a plane crash in the Amazon jungle. With no formal training and wearing only her confirmation clothes, she walked through the jungle for several days with parasitic insects boring under her skin. After eleven days, with very little food, she reached a hut and collapsed inside. Three hunters found her the next day and took her to a local doctor. Of those who survived the crash, she was the only one to make it out alive. Gonzales believes that her simple and indestructible will to live made the difference.
So stressful is a true survival situation, that those who appear to have a clear understanding of the stressors, even trained experts, are said to be mentally affected by facing deadly peril.
It seems that, to the extent that stress results from testing human limits, the benefits of learning to function under stress and determining those limits may outweigh the downside of stress. After all, stress is a natural reaction to adverse circumstances, developed by evolution to assist in survival - at least, in terms of brief, perilous encounters (such as being caught in the middle of a natural disaster, or being attacked by a wild animal.) If stress lingers for a prolonged period of time, it tends to produce the opposite effect, impeding one's ability to survive. In particular, the commentators note the following adverse effects of stress: forgetfulness, inability to sleep, increased propensity to make mistakes, lessened energy, outbursts of rage, and carelessness. None of these symptoms would seem to make survival easier or more likely.
There are certain strategies and mental tools that can help people cope better in a survival situation, including focusing on manageable tasks, having a Plan B available and recognizing denial.
Survival manuals
A survival manual is a book used as reference in situations where a human's survival is threatened - expected or unexpected. Typically it will cover both preparation and guidance for dealing with eventualities.
A simple mnemonic for a situation such as getting lost is S.T.O.P. - Stop, Think, Observe and Plan.
There are many different types of survival manuals, but most have a section of standard advice. These are sometimes republished for public distribution: for example the SAS Survival Handbook, United States Army Survival Manual (FM 3-05.70) and United States Air Force Survival Manual (AF 64-4). Some are originally written for the public and can cover wilderness, winter and marine survival, natural and man-made disasters, home preparedness and financial survival all in one manual.
Other manuals have been written for more specific uses, such as wilderness or maritime survival.
Much of today's teaching principles on survival are derived from the work of SAS Survival Instructor Lofty Wiseman.
[edit] Important Survival Items
If you find yourself struggling for survival on your own, you better hope to have three very important items: a knife, a lighter, and a compass. A knife cannot be replaced by anything that the wilderness has to offer, which makes it extremely important to have.And its importance is heightened when you take into account a knife’s many uses. A lighter is important because it ensures fire, providing many essential things (i.e. boiling water, cooking, warmth etc.). A lighter is so much better than matches, for matches can easily become unusable, such as when they get wet. And finally, a compass is important because it allows you to travel in a straight line, which will eventually lead to a road, and thus your survival.
A knife, lighter, and compass would make great additions to a personal "survival kit". Although certainly helpful in a survival situation, these "luxury" items (a knife, lighter, compass) are by no means essential to one's survival. By studying and practicing a few basic primitive skills, you can learn how to fashion your own knife out of stone (flintknapping), start a fire without matches or a lighter (bowdrill, flint & steel, etc...), and travel without a compass (celestial navigation).
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
Survival training may be broken down into three types, or schools; Modern Wilderness Survival, Bushcraft, and Primitive Survival Techniques.
Modern Wilderness Survival teaches the skills needed to survive Short-Term (1 to 4 Days) and Medium-Term (4 to 40 Days) survival situations.
"Bushcraft" is the combination of Modern Wilderness Survival and useful Primitive Survival Techniques. It normally splits its skill acquisition between Medium-Term Survival Techniques (4 to 40 Days) and Long-Term Survival Techniques (40 Days Plus).
Primitive Survival Techniques or "Primitive Living" teaches the skills needed to survive over the Long-Term (40 days plus). Many primitive technology skills require much more practice and may be more environment specific.
Several organizations offer wilderness survival training. Course ranges from one day to field courses lasting as long as a month. In addition to teaching survival techniques for conditions of limited food, water, and shelter, many organizations that teach bushcraft and Primitive Survival seek to engender appreciation and understanding of the lifestyles of pre-industrialized cultures.
There are several books that teach one how to survive in dangerous situations, and schools train children what to do in the event of an earthquake or fire. Some cities also have contingency plans in case of a major disaster, such as hurricanes or tornadoes.
Different training is necessary to survive in different climates. Although one technique may work in a dry sub-Saharan area, the same methods may actually be a detriment to health in an arctic climate.
Mental preparedness
Commentators note that the mind and its processes are critical to survival. It is said that the will to live in a life and death situation often separates those that live and those that do not. Stories of heroic feats of survival by regular people with little or no training but a strong will to live are not uncommon. Laurence Gonzales in his book Deep Survival: Who Lives, Who Dies and Why describes the story of a young teenage girl named Juliane Köpcke who is the victim of a plane crash in the Amazon jungle. With no formal training and wearing only her confirmation clothes, she walked through the jungle for several days with parasitic insects boring under her skin. After eleven days, with very little food, she reached a hut and collapsed inside. Three hunters found her the next day and took her to a local doctor. Of those who survived the crash, she was the only one to make it out alive. Gonzales believes that her simple and indestructible will to live made the difference.
So stressful is a true survival situation, that those who appear to have a clear understanding of the stressors, even trained experts, are said to be mentally affected by facing deadly peril.
It seems that, to the extent that stress results from testing human limits, the benefits of learning to function under stress and determining those limits may outweigh the downside of stress. After all, stress is a natural reaction to adverse circumstances, developed by evolution to assist in survival - at least, in terms of brief, perilous encounters (such as being caught in the middle of a natural disaster, or being attacked by a wild animal.) If stress lingers for a prolonged period of time, it tends to produce the opposite effect, impeding one's ability to survive. In particular, the commentators note the following adverse effects of stress: forgetfulness, inability to sleep, increased propensity to make mistakes, lessened energy, outbursts of rage, and carelessness. None of these symptoms would seem to make survival easier or more likely.
There are certain strategies and mental tools that can help people cope better in a survival situation, including focusing on manageable tasks, having a Plan B available and recognizing denial.
Survival manuals
A survival manual is a book used as reference in situations where a human's survival is threatened - expected or unexpected. Typically it will cover both preparation and guidance for dealing with eventualities.
A simple mnemonic for a situation such as getting lost is S.T.O.P. - Stop, Think, Observe and Plan.
There are many different types of survival manuals, but most have a section of standard advice. These are sometimes republished for public distribution: for example the SAS Survival Handbook, United States Army Survival Manual (FM 3-05.70) and United States Air Force Survival Manual (AF 64-4). Some are originally written for the public and can cover wilderness, winter and marine survival, natural and man-made disasters, home preparedness and financial survival all in one manual.
Other manuals have been written for more specific uses, such as wilderness or maritime survival.
Much of today's teaching principles on survival are derived from the work of SAS Survival Instructor Lofty Wiseman.
[edit] Important Survival Items
If you find yourself struggling for survival on your own, you better hope to have three very important items: a knife, a lighter, and a compass. A knife cannot be replaced by anything that the wilderness has to offer, which makes it extremely important to have.And its importance is heightened when you take into account a knife’s many uses. A lighter is important because it ensures fire, providing many essential things (i.e. boiling water, cooking, warmth etc.). A lighter is so much better than matches, for matches can easily become unusable, such as when they get wet. And finally, a compass is important because it allows you to travel in a straight line, which will eventually lead to a road, and thus your survival.
A knife, lighter, and compass would make great additions to a personal "survival kit". Although certainly helpful in a survival situation, these "luxury" items (a knife, lighter, compass) are by no means essential to one's survival. By studying and practicing a few basic primitive skills, you can learn how to fashion your own knife out of stone (flintknapping), start a fire without matches or a lighter (bowdrill, flint & steel, etc...), and travel without a compass (celestial navigation).
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
Seven Steps for Survival Success
Everyone's survival situation is different, so use these steps as a suggestion and modify
them to fit your specific needs. The key is to never stop preparing. Start
small and build until you consider preparedness and survival whenever you make
your major decisions. Not surprisingly, the steps below follow the guide:
Step 1: Identify the most severe threats likely to affect you, so that you can prepare for them
first. (This is spelled out in Chapter One.) Think of it as knowing your enemy.
Step 2: Make evacuation plans and prepare a bugout kit for yourself and each member of your family. Not
coincidentally, this is covered in Chapter Two of Captain Dave's Survival
Guide.
Step 3: Prepare a permanent survival kit for your car. This will serve you well if you need to
bug out or if you are caught away from your home. There's an example of an
automotive kit in Chapter Three under shelter.
Step 4: Start building your food and water stash at home. (Food storage is discussed in depth
in both the food storage FAQ and in the food section of this guide. Techniques
for saving money while buying food are covered below).
Step 5: Start acquiring survival tools. These could be anything from a plastic wrench to turn
off the gas to a chainsaw. A list of tools is provided as a resource for you.
Step 6: Start expanding your knowledge base through reading and taking courses. Build a
survival library. You should review our list of survival links for online
resources and visit Captain Dave's Book Shelf for some good reading.
Step 7: When you make large purchases, such as your car and home, consider its application for
survival and preparedness reasons. This means avoid hurricane prone areas and
stay well away from the fault line.
Additional Steps:
You should be adding to your survival skills or supplies every week. Sound hard? It doesn't
have to be. It could be as simple as adding a few purchases during your weekly
shopping trip. Or it could mean picking up a new magazine at the newsstand. Or
you could rent or buying a book or video on a survival-related subject.
Your best weapon is your mind, and reading and practicing will help polish and improve your
survival skills. Some skills, such as identifying and gathering foods in the
wild, are obviously and directly survival-related. Others, such as learning to
weld or repair small engines, may be more of a stretch. But who's to say your
future survival situation might not require someone who can weld a
water-storage tank or repair a generator?
Rehearsal:
Planning is important, but rehearsal is when you will test your plan and identify flaws.
Rehearsal is simply pretending you are in a survival situation and acting
accordingly. Here are some survival examples to try:
Try living for a
weekend without electricity. You can do this the real way by shutting of the
breaker (to prevent cheating) or the easy way by just "pretending."
If you do the latter, you should fine each other for violating the rules. The
exercise will teach you that boiling water over a camp stove or a fire in the
back yard just to make you're morning coffee can really wreck your normal
morning routine. But hopefully the experience will also help you identify
missing supplies, bad ideas and develop a new, stronger plan.
Try to evacuate your family to another location (anywhere from a friend or relatives to a motel 100 miles away). Give yourselves 20 minutes to pack. Once you've reached your destination make a list of everything you forgot and then add it to your bug out bag. Once you've settled in at your destination, take a minute to think how you would feel if everything you left behind was destroyed by a fire or if everything below the second floor was damaged or destroyed by a flood. Revise your storage and survival plans accordingly.
Go for a drive
one Saturday in the fall. Pull over in a remote area (if it's safe) and spend
the night there with only the supplies on hand in your car.
Try eating only
your survival foods for a weekend or even a week. This is a good one if you're
ready to rotate out some of your food. It also has the added benefit of letting
you identify any dishes you can't stand or to realize you need to add some
spices and a cook book to your stash.
Developing a Survival Mindset:
Being mentally prepared is a key to successful survival. Just as athletes can improve their
performance by mentally reviewing their actions before the big game, you can
improve your performance in a survival situation by reviewing your options and
plans before you need them. Play scenarios through your head and rehearse your
options and actions. For example:
If you are stuck in traffic, imagine what you would do if a large earthquake struck. Where would you go? What would you do? (If you're not in an earthquake-prone area, think
what you would do if you saw a huge funnel cloud heading towards you.)
In your work place, think what you would do if an ex-employee returned to work one day a bit drunk and verbally abusive. You know he owns guns, but you don't see one on
him. How do you react?
If you're traveling out of town or in any unfamiliar area, think about what you would do
if you were stranded due to a breakdown or if the area was suddenly hit by a
flash flood. What would you do to increase your chance of survival?
You're in a convenience store picking up milk and as you turn around form the cooler, you
see a man holding a gun on the cashier. What do you do?
(Maybe I am being cynical, but by expecting the worse, I am never disappointed and
occasionally receive a pleasant surprise. After all, we're not practicing how
to survive winning the lottery or getting a promotion and a big raise at work.)
Survival Awareness:
Part of developing a survival mindset is being aware of your situation. The military
developed a set of color codes which Col. Jeff Cooper (a respected firearms
trainer) adapted for personal "street" survival by those who carry a
firearm. Captain Dave has adapted and modified those again to pertain to
survival in the broader sense:
Condition White
An individual in Condition White is totally unaware that the world is an
unpredictable (at best) place and that they could be put in danger by a
man-made or natural disaster with little or no warning. They suffer from the
misguided belief that the government will protect them and keep them safe.
Condition Yellow An individual in Condition
Yellow has accepted responsibility for his or her personal survival. They have
admitted that the veneer of civilization can be wiped away, catapulting us back
to an era where our modern conveniences don't work. They realize that the
police cannot protect them before a crime has been committed. They realize that
while mankind can harness some of nature's powers, and predict some of her
behavior, it cannot stand against her fury.
This individual has started making preparations to protect themselves and their loved ones from
potential disasters. They monitor the news for weather-related danger or
potential civil unrest. By reading this far into Captain Dave's Survival Guide,
you are probably in condition Yellow.
Condition Orange
You are in Condition Orange when you realize a dangerous event is on the
horizon and looming closer. It could be a hurricane heading towards you, an
impending snow storm or a gang of youths crossing the street on a course ready
to intercept you. In condition Orange, you are preparing to survive an
impending situation. This could mean filling improvised water tanks or bringing
extra fire wood into the house to dry. It could be loading the car in
preparation to evacuate or hanging hurricane shutters.
(Note, in some emergencies -- like an earthquake or terrorist bombing -- you may go straight
from Condition Yellow to Condition Red or Black.)
Condition Red
You are in a survival situation and the dangerous event is there NOW. This
means the bullets are flying, or the water is rising or the wind is howling,
the electricity is out and the snow is piling up. You're most important
priority is to ride out the moment, to survive the immediate event. This
probably means taking shelter or running or, depending on the situation,
fighting back.
Condition Black
Condition Black is after the
catastrophic event, but before the situation has returned to normalcy. You
still are depending on your survival stash and skills to survive, but the
danger is longer term, not immediate.
Examples of condition black could be the earthquake that is over, but you can't return to
your home. Or the river has crested, but it will be days before your can return
home and longer before you are cleaned out. Or the riots have died down, but
you dare not leave your house or neighborhood. Or the snow has stopped but the
electricity has not been restored, and it will be a few days before the plows
dig you out.
Think about your worst-case scenario and determine how
long you might have to survive in condition black. Remember that in a
catastrophic event, such as nuclear war, a terrible plague, a comet strike or
an alien invasion (people have been e-mailing me asking me why I haven't
addressed the latter two) "normalcy" may only be in your memory.
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
them to fit your specific needs. The key is to never stop preparing. Start
small and build until you consider preparedness and survival whenever you make
your major decisions. Not surprisingly, the steps below follow the guide:
Step 1: Identify the most severe threats likely to affect you, so that you can prepare for them
first. (This is spelled out in Chapter One.) Think of it as knowing your enemy.
Step 2: Make evacuation plans and prepare a bugout kit for yourself and each member of your family. Not
coincidentally, this is covered in Chapter Two of Captain Dave's Survival
Guide.
Step 3: Prepare a permanent survival kit for your car. This will serve you well if you need to
bug out or if you are caught away from your home. There's an example of an
automotive kit in Chapter Three under shelter.
Step 4: Start building your food and water stash at home. (Food storage is discussed in depth
in both the food storage FAQ and in the food section of this guide. Techniques
for saving money while buying food are covered below).
Step 5: Start acquiring survival tools. These could be anything from a plastic wrench to turn
off the gas to a chainsaw. A list of tools is provided as a resource for you.
Step 6: Start expanding your knowledge base through reading and taking courses. Build a
survival library. You should review our list of survival links for online
resources and visit Captain Dave's Book Shelf for some good reading.
Step 7: When you make large purchases, such as your car and home, consider its application for
survival and preparedness reasons. This means avoid hurricane prone areas and
stay well away from the fault line.
Additional Steps:
You should be adding to your survival skills or supplies every week. Sound hard? It doesn't
have to be. It could be as simple as adding a few purchases during your weekly
shopping trip. Or it could mean picking up a new magazine at the newsstand. Or
you could rent or buying a book or video on a survival-related subject.
Your best weapon is your mind, and reading and practicing will help polish and improve your
survival skills. Some skills, such as identifying and gathering foods in the
wild, are obviously and directly survival-related. Others, such as learning to
weld or repair small engines, may be more of a stretch. But who's to say your
future survival situation might not require someone who can weld a
water-storage tank or repair a generator?
Rehearsal:
Planning is important, but rehearsal is when you will test your plan and identify flaws.
Rehearsal is simply pretending you are in a survival situation and acting
accordingly. Here are some survival examples to try:
Try living for a
weekend without electricity. You can do this the real way by shutting of the
breaker (to prevent cheating) or the easy way by just "pretending."
If you do the latter, you should fine each other for violating the rules. The
exercise will teach you that boiling water over a camp stove or a fire in the
back yard just to make you're morning coffee can really wreck your normal
morning routine. But hopefully the experience will also help you identify
missing supplies, bad ideas and develop a new, stronger plan.
Try to evacuate your family to another location (anywhere from a friend or relatives to a motel 100 miles away). Give yourselves 20 minutes to pack. Once you've reached your destination make a list of everything you forgot and then add it to your bug out bag. Once you've settled in at your destination, take a minute to think how you would feel if everything you left behind was destroyed by a fire or if everything below the second floor was damaged or destroyed by a flood. Revise your storage and survival plans accordingly.
Go for a drive
one Saturday in the fall. Pull over in a remote area (if it's safe) and spend
the night there with only the supplies on hand in your car.
Try eating only
your survival foods for a weekend or even a week. This is a good one if you're
ready to rotate out some of your food. It also has the added benefit of letting
you identify any dishes you can't stand or to realize you need to add some
spices and a cook book to your stash.
Developing a Survival Mindset:
Being mentally prepared is a key to successful survival. Just as athletes can improve their
performance by mentally reviewing their actions before the big game, you can
improve your performance in a survival situation by reviewing your options and
plans before you need them. Play scenarios through your head and rehearse your
options and actions. For example:
If you are stuck in traffic, imagine what you would do if a large earthquake struck. Where would you go? What would you do? (If you're not in an earthquake-prone area, think
what you would do if you saw a huge funnel cloud heading towards you.)
In your work place, think what you would do if an ex-employee returned to work one day a bit drunk and verbally abusive. You know he owns guns, but you don't see one on
him. How do you react?
If you're traveling out of town or in any unfamiliar area, think about what you would do
if you were stranded due to a breakdown or if the area was suddenly hit by a
flash flood. What would you do to increase your chance of survival?
You're in a convenience store picking up milk and as you turn around form the cooler, you
see a man holding a gun on the cashier. What do you do?
(Maybe I am being cynical, but by expecting the worse, I am never disappointed and
occasionally receive a pleasant surprise. After all, we're not practicing how
to survive winning the lottery or getting a promotion and a big raise at work.)
Survival Awareness:
Part of developing a survival mindset is being aware of your situation. The military
developed a set of color codes which Col. Jeff Cooper (a respected firearms
trainer) adapted for personal "street" survival by those who carry a
firearm. Captain Dave has adapted and modified those again to pertain to
survival in the broader sense:
Condition White
An individual in Condition White is totally unaware that the world is an
unpredictable (at best) place and that they could be put in danger by a
man-made or natural disaster with little or no warning. They suffer from the
misguided belief that the government will protect them and keep them safe.
Condition Yellow An individual in Condition
Yellow has accepted responsibility for his or her personal survival. They have
admitted that the veneer of civilization can be wiped away, catapulting us back
to an era where our modern conveniences don't work. They realize that the
police cannot protect them before a crime has been committed. They realize that
while mankind can harness some of nature's powers, and predict some of her
behavior, it cannot stand against her fury.
This individual has started making preparations to protect themselves and their loved ones from
potential disasters. They monitor the news for weather-related danger or
potential civil unrest. By reading this far into Captain Dave's Survival Guide,
you are probably in condition Yellow.
Condition Orange
You are in Condition Orange when you realize a dangerous event is on the
horizon and looming closer. It could be a hurricane heading towards you, an
impending snow storm or a gang of youths crossing the street on a course ready
to intercept you. In condition Orange, you are preparing to survive an
impending situation. This could mean filling improvised water tanks or bringing
extra fire wood into the house to dry. It could be loading the car in
preparation to evacuate or hanging hurricane shutters.
(Note, in some emergencies -- like an earthquake or terrorist bombing -- you may go straight
from Condition Yellow to Condition Red or Black.)
Condition Red
You are in a survival situation and the dangerous event is there NOW. This
means the bullets are flying, or the water is rising or the wind is howling,
the electricity is out and the snow is piling up. You're most important
priority is to ride out the moment, to survive the immediate event. This
probably means taking shelter or running or, depending on the situation,
fighting back.
Condition Black
Condition Black is after the
catastrophic event, but before the situation has returned to normalcy. You
still are depending on your survival stash and skills to survive, but the
danger is longer term, not immediate.
Examples of condition black could be the earthquake that is over, but you can't return to
your home. Or the river has crested, but it will be days before your can return
home and longer before you are cleaned out. Or the riots have died down, but
you dare not leave your house or neighborhood. Or the snow has stopped but the
electricity has not been restored, and it will be a few days before the plows
dig you out.
Think about your worst-case scenario and determine how
long you might have to survive in condition black. Remember that in a
catastrophic event, such as nuclear war, a terrible plague, a comet strike or
an alien invasion (people have been e-mailing me asking me why I haven't
addressed the latter two) "normalcy" may only be in your memory.
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
Cast Iron Care and Seasoning
Basically, you just start with a clean skillet, Dutch oven or whatever you have. If it’s new, or hasn’t been used in years, then clean it with mild soap and water. Generally, a sponge or dish rag will do the job. If it’s rusty, you’ll need to get the rust off, then wash it up good. Make sure you dry it thoroughly before putting it away again or seasoning it. I dry it with a towel, then either set it on the back of my cookstove where it’s warm, but not too hot, or set it in the oven for awhile to dry it out. Cast iron is porous, so if it isn’t completely dry, it will be hard to get a really good season on the skillet, and it’s likely to rust .
Once you have a clean, dry skillet, you’re ready to season it. “Seasoning” here is not the same as spices you’d add to the food you’ll cook in your skillet. Here’s my method, but again, everybody does it different. People who have cast iron who come to visit us always say that things stick in their pans, and their skillets have a dull finish. Mine are usually shiny and nothing ever sticks. So, here are some tips to get you going.
The Quick (And Tasty) Way To Season
If your skillet is in need of seasoning, but isn’t rusty or brand new, there’s a quick and easy way to season it. Cook something greasy. I do one of the following:
Some people insist on cleaning cast iron the same as any other pan, with hot, strong soapy water. Well, I’m not one of those people. I know many people think you have to use soap to get things clean. That may be true with some things, but I’m “one of those” people who believes that the old ways are most often better than the new ways. My grandmama insisted on NEVER using soap on cast iron after its initial washing when you brought it home from the store. She was healthy and we were healthy. We never got sick because of not using soap on our skillets. Here’s what my grandmama always did, and this is what I do:
Although cast iron cookware can outlast most other kinds of cookware, it is certainly breakable, especially when it’s hot. So, don’t pour cold water into a hot skillet, or set it in the snow right after taking it off of a hot fire.
Rather than stack my skillets on a shelf like most people do with their pans, I hang my skillets on a beam over my kitchen. Some folks hang them on a wall. This keeps the air circulating so they don’t get rusty, and it keeps them from banging around and getting damaged.
If you’re going to have to store your skillet for awhile, make sure it’s completely dry before packing it away. This will help prevent rust. Also, make sure it’s well seasoned before you store it. Leave the lids off so that air can circulate, and try not to let it bang around on other things in the box.
To Make A Long Story Short . . .
Ok, that’s about it. Cast iron cookware is the best, and it’s actually very easy to use and take care of. To sum it up, wash a new skillet in mild soapy water before you use it. Dry it completely, and place it in a warm oven for a little while. Give it a light coating of tallow, lard or shortening, then return to a warm oven for a few hours. Repeat until you get a nice, shiny, non-stick finish. Clean it after each use by boiling a few cups of water in the skillet, then scrape out the food. Wipe it with a damp sponge and then give it another light coating of oil or grease before putting away for the next use.
If you have never used a cast iron skillet or Dutch oven, or have put it aside for something more modern, I hope you’ll dig it out of your attic, dust it off and start using it. Once you get used to it, you’ll never want to use one of those light-weight pans again. Many foods, such as biscuits, cornbread, and even pizza crust are so much better in a well-seasoned cast iron skillet. Modern cookware just doesn’t measure up.
h/t Andrea Sisco
Once you have a clean, dry skillet, you’re ready to season it. “Seasoning” here is not the same as spices you’d add to the food you’ll cook in your skillet. Here’s my method, but again, everybody does it different. People who have cast iron who come to visit us always say that things stick in their pans, and their skillets have a dull finish. Mine are usually shiny and nothing ever sticks. So, here are some tips to get you going.
- Heat your clean, dry skillet in a warm (250 to 300 degree) oven.
- Once it’s nice and warm throughout, grease it with a thin coating of tallow (LINK TO RENDERING ARTICLE), lard or shortening. You’ll only need a very thin coating. If you get too much, it will get sticky. Grease the entire skillet ---- inside, outside and the handle. I use a dust-free cloth, and rub the grease into the skillet well. Remember, cast iron is porous.
- Now, return the skillet to your warm oven and let it stay there for several hours. Since I cook with a woodburning stove all the time, my oven is always warm. If a skillet needs seasoning, I’ll do this at night while the oven is still very warm, then take it out in the morning.
- Repeat the process at least 3 times, although you only need to grease the outside and handle the first time. From here on out, just do the inside cooking surface. Heat the skillet, lightly grease it, return to a warm oven for at least 2 hours. I keep doing this until I have a nice, shiny finish. Then I know I’ll have no trouble with food sticking the next time I use it.
The Quick (And Tasty) Way To Season
If your skillet is in need of seasoning, but isn’t rusty or brand new, there’s a quick and easy way to season it. Cook something greasy. I do one of the following:
- Make French Fries for supper in my skillet. The hot oil seasons the skillet while you cook, leaving a beautiful finish. OR,
- Make pancakes for breakfast. I always put a little oil or grease in my skillet before pouring the batter for the next pancake, so when breakfast is over, my skillet has a great, non-stick finish. OR
- Cook up a skillet of cornbread for supper. This doesn’t work quite as good as the first two, but it does great. Well, this depends on how you make cornbread. I always put a tablespoon or two of tallow or other grease in my skillet, then get it good and hot in the oven right before I pour in my cornbread batter. This gives my cornbread a crunchy crust, and effortlessly seasons my skillet.
Some people insist on cleaning cast iron the same as any other pan, with hot, strong soapy water. Well, I’m not one of those people. I know many people think you have to use soap to get things clean. That may be true with some things, but I’m “one of those” people who believes that the old ways are most often better than the new ways. My grandmama insisted on NEVER using soap on cast iron after its initial washing when you brought it home from the store. She was healthy and we were healthy. We never got sick because of not using soap on our skillets. Here’s what my grandmama always did, and this is what I do:
- Scrape any leftover food out of the skillet.
- Depending on the food, sometimes I’ll set the pan in the warm oven to dry the bits of food that I can’t scoop out. Then I can wipe out the dried food easily.
- After getting out the leftover food, I put a couple of cups of water in the skillet, then bring it to a boil on top of the stove. Using a spatula, I scrape all the food out while the water is boiling. Then toss the water and food out.
- I use a damp sponge to wipe the skillet clean, then while still hot, I wipe the inside with a little oil or grease. That’s the biggie. Be sure to grease it lightly while still warm before putting it away.
Although cast iron cookware can outlast most other kinds of cookware, it is certainly breakable, especially when it’s hot. So, don’t pour cold water into a hot skillet, or set it in the snow right after taking it off of a hot fire.
Rather than stack my skillets on a shelf like most people do with their pans, I hang my skillets on a beam over my kitchen. Some folks hang them on a wall. This keeps the air circulating so they don’t get rusty, and it keeps them from banging around and getting damaged.
If you’re going to have to store your skillet for awhile, make sure it’s completely dry before packing it away. This will help prevent rust. Also, make sure it’s well seasoned before you store it. Leave the lids off so that air can circulate, and try not to let it bang around on other things in the box.
To Make A Long Story Short . . .
Ok, that’s about it. Cast iron cookware is the best, and it’s actually very easy to use and take care of. To sum it up, wash a new skillet in mild soapy water before you use it. Dry it completely, and place it in a warm oven for a little while. Give it a light coating of tallow, lard or shortening, then return to a warm oven for a few hours. Repeat until you get a nice, shiny, non-stick finish. Clean it after each use by boiling a few cups of water in the skillet, then scrape out the food. Wipe it with a damp sponge and then give it another light coating of oil or grease before putting away for the next use.
If you have never used a cast iron skillet or Dutch oven, or have put it aside for something more modern, I hope you’ll dig it out of your attic, dust it off and start using it. Once you get used to it, you’ll never want to use one of those light-weight pans again. Many foods, such as biscuits, cornbread, and even pizza crust are so much better in a well-seasoned cast iron skillet. Modern cookware just doesn’t measure up.
h/t Andrea Sisco
Building a Dryer Lint and Wax Stove (from survival blog)
Once assembled it is primarily a stove, but a bit of its contents can be cut away and used as a fire starter, and--if the area is properly ventilated--a heating device. That’s right, a single, self contained, water proof unit consisting of just three materials of which many of us have and throw away.
Materials
1. Dryer Lint (About a one-pound coffee can full)
2. Empty 12 oz. Tuna can (Clean and dry)
3. Wax (Approx. 12 oz)
Equipment
1. Fry Pan
2. Small Pot
3. Stove
4. Water
5. Small stick (Popsicle type. I use my fingers but the wax is obviously hot!)
Assembly
1. Place an inch or so of water in the fry pan and bring to a mild boil.
2. Break or cut wax into small pieces and place into the pot.
3. Place Pot into the water and allow the wax to melt.
4. Pack as much lint into the tuna can as possible.
5. Slowly pour wax over the lint. The lint is going to absorb the wax and contract.
6. Continually add lint. One tuna can will hold almost all of the lint that you have collected.
7. Once the tuna can is almost full, top off with just a bit of wax.
8. Let the wax cool and harden. I place it in the fridge to expedite the process. Even in the fridge it will take several hours to cool thoroughly.
Once assembled the total weight will be approximately 12.5 ounces.
How to use Acting as a wick the lint burns the wax just like a candle. The Flame base is wide, almost the circumference of the can used, so it’s large enough to make quick work of a plate of food or a pot of snow. Take your utility knife and pierce the contents about a quarter of an inch and gently pry up creating little peaks you can easily light.
If you are having trouble getting that fire started, just grab your handy knife and carve a bit of the lint and wax away and place it under your kindling.
With wax as the fuel source once this handy item cools it is also water proof. I will admit it is a bit heavy however for three days in the field about half a can will work.
Options
Different containers, e.g. an empty shoe polish can, will make a smaller stove with a lid. A larger can will burn much longer allowing for larger items to be heated.
All the oft-repeated safety provisos on open flames and stove ventilation apply. Also, keep in mind that once ignited, you are dealing with liquid paraffin, so it will create a napalm-like burning puddle if the stove is tipped over. So show great caution when using your stove. Once you are done cooking, it is best to snuff it out by covering it with a tight-fitting steel lid. And of course let everything cool down completely before moving the stove.
h/t Andrea Sisco
Materials
1. Dryer Lint (About a one-pound coffee can full)
2. Empty 12 oz. Tuna can (Clean and dry)
3. Wax (Approx. 12 oz)
Equipment
1. Fry Pan
2. Small Pot
3. Stove
4. Water
5. Small stick (Popsicle type. I use my fingers but the wax is obviously hot!)
Assembly
1. Place an inch or so of water in the fry pan and bring to a mild boil.
2. Break or cut wax into small pieces and place into the pot.
3. Place Pot into the water and allow the wax to melt.
4. Pack as much lint into the tuna can as possible.
5. Slowly pour wax over the lint. The lint is going to absorb the wax and contract.
6. Continually add lint. One tuna can will hold almost all of the lint that you have collected.
7. Once the tuna can is almost full, top off with just a bit of wax.
8. Let the wax cool and harden. I place it in the fridge to expedite the process. Even in the fridge it will take several hours to cool thoroughly.
Once assembled the total weight will be approximately 12.5 ounces.
How to use Acting as a wick the lint burns the wax just like a candle. The Flame base is wide, almost the circumference of the can used, so it’s large enough to make quick work of a plate of food or a pot of snow. Take your utility knife and pierce the contents about a quarter of an inch and gently pry up creating little peaks you can easily light.
If you are having trouble getting that fire started, just grab your handy knife and carve a bit of the lint and wax away and place it under your kindling.
With wax as the fuel source once this handy item cools it is also water proof. I will admit it is a bit heavy however for three days in the field about half a can will work.
Options
Different containers, e.g. an empty shoe polish can, will make a smaller stove with a lid. A larger can will burn much longer allowing for larger items to be heated.
All the oft-repeated safety provisos on open flames and stove ventilation apply. Also, keep in mind that once ignited, you are dealing with liquid paraffin, so it will create a napalm-like burning puddle if the stove is tipped over. So show great caution when using your stove. Once you are done cooking, it is best to snuff it out by covering it with a tight-fitting steel lid. And of course let everything cool down completely before moving the stove.
h/t Andrea Sisco
Survival Gear And Emergency Kit List
It seems everyone likes lists. Lists can be used as a quick reference point and a guide when stockpiling survival gear, keep in mind that this is only a guide and not formed in stone, the end product should be tailor-made for you and your needs. After all who knows your skills, location and resources better than you? But with that being said; I feel this list is a good starting point and a thrust in the right direction.
I have purposely left out such items as cookware, clothing and other everyday household items, for the fact every home should already have a plentiful supply of these everyday staples. I have also not included food, barter goods or firearms since these have already been covered in my Survival 101 series.
I have tried to keep this list as short and to the point as possible, including only items I feel to be absolutely essential. Sure you could survive with less, but with some basic gear things become less of a challenge. If nothing else it should generate discourse, let’s get started.
1. (Grain Mill – Back to Basics 555 or Universal 500 ) are basic budget mills that will get the job done with a lot of work and elbow grease. The Country Living Grain Mill is faster and easier to use, but more expensive than the other two, and out of our budget here.
2. Water Filter – American-made Aqua Rain brand and if budget allows the Katadyn Hiker PRO Microfilter is a good back up unit.
3. Coleman Dual Fuel Gas Stove, extra mantles and Coleman Two-Mantle Dual Fuel Powerhouse Lantern and at least six gallon of white gas.
4. Sleeping bag for each person in your group. A good rule of thumb is to think about the coldest condition you might experience, and then drop down ten or twenty degrees in the temperature rating when choosing a bag.
5. A good belt knife and a Victorinox Swiss Pocket Knife or Leatherman Multitool for each person in your group is recommended.
6. A large box of 4-mill plastic sheeting.
7. 250 feet of 3/8 inch nylon rope.
8. $20 worth of wooden kitchen matches, stored in waterproof containers.
9. A rake, shovel and hoe for every two people in your group.
10. Chain Saw, extra chain and box files, mixing oil, bar oil and five or more gallon of fuel. Choose a saw that is powerful enough to get the job done but light enough so it doesn’t ware you down prematurely.
11. Two-man crosscut saw and file, bow saw and extra blade, ax and sharpening files.
12. Comprehensive Medical kit and the skills to put it to use if the need should arise.
13. Flashlight, Maglite or equivalent with extra batteries and bulb.
14. Walkie Talkies rated at a 5 mile range or better; check at Wal-Mart in the electronic department.
15. Shortwave receiver with AM and FM, weather and citizens (cb) bands .
16. Leather Work Gloves.
h/t Andrea Sisco
I have purposely left out such items as cookware, clothing and other everyday household items, for the fact every home should already have a plentiful supply of these everyday staples. I have also not included food, barter goods or firearms since these have already been covered in my Survival 101 series.
I have tried to keep this list as short and to the point as possible, including only items I feel to be absolutely essential. Sure you could survive with less, but with some basic gear things become less of a challenge. If nothing else it should generate discourse, let’s get started.
1. (Grain Mill – Back to Basics 555 or Universal 500 ) are basic budget mills that will get the job done with a lot of work and elbow grease. The Country Living Grain Mill is faster and easier to use, but more expensive than the other two, and out of our budget here.
2. Water Filter – American-made Aqua Rain brand and if budget allows the Katadyn Hiker PRO Microfilter is a good back up unit.
3. Coleman Dual Fuel Gas Stove, extra mantles and Coleman Two-Mantle Dual Fuel Powerhouse Lantern and at least six gallon of white gas.
4. Sleeping bag for each person in your group. A good rule of thumb is to think about the coldest condition you might experience, and then drop down ten or twenty degrees in the temperature rating when choosing a bag.
5. A good belt knife and a Victorinox Swiss Pocket Knife or Leatherman Multitool for each person in your group is recommended.
6. A large box of 4-mill plastic sheeting.
7. 250 feet of 3/8 inch nylon rope.
8. $20 worth of wooden kitchen matches, stored in waterproof containers.
9. A rake, shovel and hoe for every two people in your group.
10. Chain Saw, extra chain and box files, mixing oil, bar oil and five or more gallon of fuel. Choose a saw that is powerful enough to get the job done but light enough so it doesn’t ware you down prematurely.
11. Two-man crosscut saw and file, bow saw and extra blade, ax and sharpening files.
12. Comprehensive Medical kit and the skills to put it to use if the need should arise.
13. Flashlight, Maglite or equivalent with extra batteries and bulb.
14. Walkie Talkies rated at a 5 mile range or better; check at Wal-Mart in the electronic department.
15. Shortwave receiver with AM and FM, weather and citizens (cb) bands .
16. Leather Work Gloves.
h/t Andrea Sisco
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
BOOBY TRAPS
BOOBY TRAPS
How to Make a Catapult Booby Trap
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Catapult-Booby-Trap
Make a Booby Trap: Traps for Hunting and Home Protectionhttp://www.howtodothings.com/sports-recreation/how-to-make-booby-traps
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
How to Make a Catapult Booby Trap
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Catapult-Booby-Trap
Make a Booby Trap: Traps for Hunting and Home Protectionhttp://www.howtodothings.com/sports-recreation/how-to-make-booby-traps
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
VINEGAR
The Medicinal Uses of Raw Apple Cider Vinegar
http://www.pioneerthinking.com/bs_applecidervinegar.html
TLC Cooking "How to Make Your Own Vinegar"
Shared by: Pauline Guild
http://recipes.howstuffworks.com/how-vinegar-works2.htm
EatTheWeeds: Episode 33: Homemade Vinegar
http://youtu.be/TEwOzhyVYyc
How to Make Mother of Vinegar
http://www.ehow.com/how_5752385_make-mother-vinegar.html
VINEGAR/YEAST
Shared by: Cherrell Thomas
http://www.ehow.com/how_5752385_make-mother-vinegar.html
Apple Cider Vinegar: A Natural Way to Improve Your Chickens’ Health
http://www.mysnazzychickencoop.com/chicken-health/apple-cider-vinegar-natural-improve-chickens-health/
Long praised for its health benefits among the alternative medicine community, apple cider vinegar can do wonders for your chickens. The product of pulverized and fermented apples, apple cider vinegar contains acetic and other acids, mineral salts, and amino acids that are great for your chickens. Using apple cider vinegar in various ways around your flock and coop can do the following:
Giving your chickens apple cider vinegar directly
Adding apple cider vinegar directly to your chickens’ drinking water can help to maintain digestive health by lowering the pH in their stomach. It can also act as an antiseptic, killing any harmful mucus or bacteria in the throat that can cause respiratory ailments. Some homesteaders also report that feeding chickens apple cider vinegar increases their egg production.
To add apple cider vinegar to your chickens’ water, always use raw, unfiltered, and unpasteurized vinegar, such as Bragg’s. You can find raw apple cider vinegar at many well-stocked grocery stores, health food stores, or poultry supply stores. Use four teaspoons of apple cider vinegar for each gallon of water, or one quart apple cider vinegar per fifty gallons.
Using apple cider vinegar to clean your chicken coop, feeders, and waterers
You can also use apple cider vinegar to clean your chicken coop walls, floors, roof, windows, feeder, and waterer. Just add a few teaspoons of apple cider vinegar to a spray bottle filled with water. The raw, unfiltered, and unpasteurized apple cider vinegar is always best, but for cleaning purposes, any type of apple cider vinegar will work.
To clean with apple cider vinegar, just spray any dirty surface with your solution and wipe clean with a rag or towel. Frequent cleaning with apple cider vinegar will disinfect any surface and prevent mold, mildew, dust, and unpleasant odors from building up in your coop. Many homesteaders report that cleaning the chickens’ area with apple cider vinegar prevents flies and ants from congregating around chickens as well.
Using apple cider vinegar as an abrasive cleaner
Apple cider vinegar makes a great abrasive cleaner for areas like cages, cracks, and brooders that may get particularly dirty but are difficult to clean effectively. Mixing apple cider vinegar with coarse sea salt will help to safely rub off any build-up on dirty surfaces.
For the ultimate clean feeling, mix baking soda with a small amount of water to scrub surfaces thoroughly and then spray with an apple cider vinegar solution to disinfect.
Amazing vinegar! 19 ways to help pets, house, and you
http://green.yahoo.com/blog/ecomii_healthy_living/114/amazing-vinegar-19-ways-to-help-pets-house-and-you.
From soothing sunburn and insect bites to deterring insects and cats, vinegar is a versatile, safe and effective solution for many household and pet problems.
http://www.pioneerthinking.com/bs_applecidervinegar.html
TLC Cooking "How to Make Your Own Vinegar"
Shared by: Pauline Guild
http://recipes.howstuffworks.com/how-vinegar-works2.htm
EatTheWeeds: Episode 33: Homemade Vinegar
http://youtu.be/TEwOzhyVYyc
How to Make Mother of Vinegar
http://www.ehow.com/how_5752385_make-mother-vinegar.html
VINEGAR/YEAST
Shared by: Cherrell Thomas
http://www.ehow.com/how_5752385_make-mother-vinegar.html
Apple Cider Vinegar: A Natural Way to Improve Your Chickens’ Health
http://www.mysnazzychickencoop.com/chicken-health/apple-cider-vinegar-natural-improve-chickens-health/
Long praised for its health benefits among the alternative medicine community, apple cider vinegar can do wonders for your chickens. The product of pulverized and fermented apples, apple cider vinegar contains acetic and other acids, mineral salts, and amino acids that are great for your chickens. Using apple cider vinegar in various ways around your flock and coop can do the following:
- Improve the digestive health of your chickens by maintaining proper pH balance in the digestive tract
- Increase egg production
- Kill germs that cause respiratory illnesses among chickens
- Keep your chickens’ water free of harmful bacteria
- Eliminate mold, mildew, dust, and odors from your chicken coop
- Disinfect your chicken coop and your chickens’ feeding and watering system
- Repel flies and ants
- Act as an abrasive for difficult-to-clean surfaces such as brooders, window panes, and cages.
Giving your chickens apple cider vinegar directly
Adding apple cider vinegar directly to your chickens’ drinking water can help to maintain digestive health by lowering the pH in their stomach. It can also act as an antiseptic, killing any harmful mucus or bacteria in the throat that can cause respiratory ailments. Some homesteaders also report that feeding chickens apple cider vinegar increases their egg production.
To add apple cider vinegar to your chickens’ water, always use raw, unfiltered, and unpasteurized vinegar, such as Bragg’s. You can find raw apple cider vinegar at many well-stocked grocery stores, health food stores, or poultry supply stores. Use four teaspoons of apple cider vinegar for each gallon of water, or one quart apple cider vinegar per fifty gallons.
Using apple cider vinegar to clean your chicken coop, feeders, and waterers
You can also use apple cider vinegar to clean your chicken coop walls, floors, roof, windows, feeder, and waterer. Just add a few teaspoons of apple cider vinegar to a spray bottle filled with water. The raw, unfiltered, and unpasteurized apple cider vinegar is always best, but for cleaning purposes, any type of apple cider vinegar will work.
To clean with apple cider vinegar, just spray any dirty surface with your solution and wipe clean with a rag or towel. Frequent cleaning with apple cider vinegar will disinfect any surface and prevent mold, mildew, dust, and unpleasant odors from building up in your coop. Many homesteaders report that cleaning the chickens’ area with apple cider vinegar prevents flies and ants from congregating around chickens as well.
Using apple cider vinegar as an abrasive cleaner
Apple cider vinegar makes a great abrasive cleaner for areas like cages, cracks, and brooders that may get particularly dirty but are difficult to clean effectively. Mixing apple cider vinegar with coarse sea salt will help to safely rub off any build-up on dirty surfaces.
For the ultimate clean feeling, mix baking soda with a small amount of water to scrub surfaces thoroughly and then spray with an apple cider vinegar solution to disinfect.
Amazing vinegar! 19 ways to help pets, house, and you
http://green.yahoo.com/blog/ecomii_healthy_living/114/amazing-vinegar-19-ways-to-help-pets-house-and-you.
From soothing sunburn and insect bites to deterring insects and cats, vinegar is a versatile, safe and effective solution for many household and pet problems.
- A few tablespoons of apple cider vinegar in your pet’s water bowl will prevent fleas and mange.
- If you dog has been sprayed by a skunk, rub vinegar (any type) on his coat and rinse.
- If your pet has hot spots, dab a little vinegar (any kind) on the spots.
- To remove pet urine from carpets -- The best vinegar to get is one that has not been processed, look for vinegar that has been cold pressed.
- Keep cut flowers blooming longer -- Add 2 tablespoons white vinegar and 1 teaspoon sugar to a quart of water. Stems should sit at least 4 inches into the water.
- Deter ants with vinegar. Either spray or place a vinegar soaked string in the areas ants frequent.
- Vinegar is an herbicide when used in temperatures above 70°. However, it will also kill plants, so use vinegar carefully in the garden.
- When slicing onions, rub hands with vinegar before and after handling them, to prevent odor.
- Keep cats away by sprinkling vinegar in the areas you want them to avoid. Citrus peelings and soap will also deter cats.
- Clean your dog’s ears with a soft cloth dipped in diluted vinegar. Apple cider vinegar is recommended.
- Clean rust from garden tools and spigots by soaking in undiluted vinegar. Lay a cloth soaked in vinegar over the spigot overnight.
- Dab vinegar on a mosquito bite (or any insect bite) to soothe.
- After gardening, pour vinegar over your hands to soothe and prevent drying and flaking.
- Remove fruit stains from hands by rinsing with vinegar.
- Soak wilted vegetables in 2 cups of water and 1 tablespoon of vinegar.
- Vinegar is an effective air freshener. Put out a bowl of vinegar to eliminate cigar, smoke or pet odors.
- Soothe sunburn by rubbing vinegar on the affected area.
- Soothe a bee sting by dabbing the affected area with vinegar.
There are several steps involved in a disaster situation.
1. The initial disaster. A disaster consists on any occurrence that effects a (individual, family, community, nation, take your pick) to a great extent. Most disasters occur in a matter of seconds, but may last several minutes. This is when the physical damage occurs.
2. Shock and initial S...AR (Search And Rescue). This stage consists of coming to your senses, rescuing yourself, then your family. All classes I have taken stress “You are no good to anybody if YOU are not (safe, healthy, etc.). I must agree. Help yourself, help your family, help your neighbors, in that order. More than likely, help will not arrive in time to help you, and possibly your family. It's up to you. This stage can last as long as 30 minutes.
3. Extended SAR and Triage. This is when help arrives. NOTE: The emergency is NOT over!!! Keep your head as much as possible, and secure your perimeter. For civilians, this means your home, thus establishing a base for you to work from. Work with the officials, and help as you can. Triage means sorting. The responding personnel will look at the situation and help the worst off first. Please note that if you are injured, steps 2 and 3 are very difficult, if not impossible. Do not be afraid to ask for help, but you should also be as self-sufficient as possible. There are many more out there in worse shape than you, do not be an unnecessary burden on the rescuers. This can last several days to as long as several weeks.
4. Salvage and Recovery. Although much help has poured into the area, salvaging a person's belongings (yours and/or somebody else's) will help 'ground' the person, and help them to get back on an even keel. Recovered pets often are a strong comfort to children, as are personal clothing and shoes things that effects adults (not sure why). What is important to each person is different. If possible, involve the resident in the salvage. The emergency is abated (but not over) and you can “spaz out” for a short time, if needed. The division line between steps 3 and 4 are very blurry.
5. Cleanup. Removing the Debris. This is the hardest step, because bodies are often found. It can last as long as 30 days, but should be done as soon as possible. The psychological problems are often compounded, if the depressing rubble is allowed to sit upon the person's (or anybody's) mind.
6. Rebuild. Starting your life over, again. Assistance will be offered from many sources. Be aware that there are thieves out there that will take you for what little you have left. Use your head. Be careful! This step usually last several months, but may last for years.
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmr
2. Shock and initial S...AR (Search And Rescue). This stage consists of coming to your senses, rescuing yourself, then your family. All classes I have taken stress “You are no good to anybody if YOU are not (safe, healthy, etc.). I must agree. Help yourself, help your family, help your neighbors, in that order. More than likely, help will not arrive in time to help you, and possibly your family. It's up to you. This stage can last as long as 30 minutes.
3. Extended SAR and Triage. This is when help arrives. NOTE: The emergency is NOT over!!! Keep your head as much as possible, and secure your perimeter. For civilians, this means your home, thus establishing a base for you to work from. Work with the officials, and help as you can. Triage means sorting. The responding personnel will look at the situation and help the worst off first. Please note that if you are injured, steps 2 and 3 are very difficult, if not impossible. Do not be afraid to ask for help, but you should also be as self-sufficient as possible. There are many more out there in worse shape than you, do not be an unnecessary burden on the rescuers. This can last several days to as long as several weeks.
4. Salvage and Recovery. Although much help has poured into the area, salvaging a person's belongings (yours and/or somebody else's) will help 'ground' the person, and help them to get back on an even keel. Recovered pets often are a strong comfort to children, as are personal clothing and shoes things that effects adults (not sure why). What is important to each person is different. If possible, involve the resident in the salvage. The emergency is abated (but not over) and you can “spaz out” for a short time, if needed. The division line between steps 3 and 4 are very blurry.
5. Cleanup. Removing the Debris. This is the hardest step, because bodies are often found. It can last as long as 30 days, but should be done as soon as possible. The psychological problems are often compounded, if the depressing rubble is allowed to sit upon the person's (or anybody's) mind.
6. Rebuild. Starting your life over, again. Assistance will be offered from many sources. Be aware that there are thieves out there that will take you for what little you have left. Use your head. Be careful! This step usually last several months, but may last for years.
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmr
10 invaluable skills that will likely help you sustain yourself in a hand-made local world
1. Organic Gardening and Seed Saving: Skills involving food production will be the most valuable in a post-collapse society. Learning to grow your own food is a must. Obviously, it is necessary to feed your family, but you will also be able to trade your abundance for other items. Additionally, learning to save seeds will also provide another excellent means of trade.
2. Food Processing and Preservation: Learning to process and preserve foods will be another huge skill in a post-collapse world. Taking seasonal abundance and preserving it for future consumption or trade will be vital. Remember, learning to do this with limited electricity is a must. This can also include learning to brew beer, mead, vinegar, or other alcoholic beverages from meager ingredients.
3. Hunting, Fishing, and Gathering: Learning to fish and hunt is essential to survival. Having the proper gear and training will be priceless after the collapse of modern civilization. Having reference guides for edible plants in your region, repairing weapons, trapping wild game, and fishing are great tools to have if you haven’t the time to learn them now. In regards to weapons, your ability to use them also gives you the skill of working security.
4. Animal Husbandry: Notice the first four categories are related to food production. It’s that important. Just gaining knowledge of one of these categories will give you an invaluable skill to thrive in a post-apocalyptic world. Knowledge of animal husbandry can provide endless amounts of sustainable meat, eggs, and milk to you and your tribe.
5. Construction: Construction skills will be very important in a shattered civilization. These skills, especially without power tools, are not something you learn overnight. If you have some basic skills it may be worth learning a few techniques for building small structures with crude hand tools. There are many books teaching anyone how to build basic cabins, sheds, and composting outhouses.
6. Alternative Energy and Fuels: Having the knowledge to implement alternative energy systems will make you a wealthy survivor in a “dark” world. You can learn to build your own alternative energy systems, or you can purchase back up solar generators in preparation for emergencies. There are also small fuel refinery systems available like the biodiesel Fuelmeister, and the new invention from Japan that turns plastic into oil. Knowledge of how to create energy would be invaluable when oil is scarce.
7. Water Purification: Since it’s difficult to pump well water without electricity and with surface water likely to be contaminated, clean water will be in very limited supply. Learning to purify water will allow you thrive during this time. You can also purchase water filters for your go-bag that will last weeks, and you can have back-up tablets should you need them. However, the skill and knowledge to purify water should be the goal as that can never run out.
8. Basic First Aid and Natural Medicine: This is another skill that can take years to develop and learn, but that will be crucial when supply lines of pharmaceuticals are cut off and hospitals are over-run. Knowledge of growing herbal gardens for making medicine at home will prove to be very important. Learning basic procedures for stitching wounds, CPR, and more will also be of great assistance. Being the tribe’s shaman with a natural medicine chest is a prestigious position
9. Mechanics: Mechanics for cars, motorcycles, tractors and other machinery will likely be in high demand. In addition, bicycle mechanics will also fair well in world where fuel is very expensive or hard to come by. These are also skills that are not learned over night, but it will be wise to at least have access to books or how-to videos.
10. Soap and Candle Making: With long supply lines decimated and electricity on the fritz, soap and candle makers will provide a valuable product. Clearly some preparation of storing raw materials may be needed to achieve trade-able levels of these goods. Even if you just had the knowledge to make soap or candles just for your immediate tribe, you will be much better off for it.
You’ll notice that many of these skills also fall into the category of what you would need to be self-sufficient. Again, learning all of these skills will be virtually impossible, especially if the collapse isn’t that far off as many predict. Determine which skills that most appeal to you and focus on them by studying and acquiring the tools needed. Since you can’t become an expert in everything it may be wise to recruit tribe members with various survival skills. It will also be beneficial to build up your library of “how to” books and videos for tasks that you are not proficient in. You can download any video from Youtube by using Keepvid.com and build your library into an external hard drive.
Remember, knowledge of and skills to produce human necessities will be the only form of wealth creation in a hand-made world. Knowledge is something that no one can take from you. It’s the eternal wealth that will help you thrive in a Post-Collapse world. Get Prepared Now!
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
2. Food Processing and Preservation: Learning to process and preserve foods will be another huge skill in a post-collapse world. Taking seasonal abundance and preserving it for future consumption or trade will be vital. Remember, learning to do this with limited electricity is a must. This can also include learning to brew beer, mead, vinegar, or other alcoholic beverages from meager ingredients.
3. Hunting, Fishing, and Gathering: Learning to fish and hunt is essential to survival. Having the proper gear and training will be priceless after the collapse of modern civilization. Having reference guides for edible plants in your region, repairing weapons, trapping wild game, and fishing are great tools to have if you haven’t the time to learn them now. In regards to weapons, your ability to use them also gives you the skill of working security.
4. Animal Husbandry: Notice the first four categories are related to food production. It’s that important. Just gaining knowledge of one of these categories will give you an invaluable skill to thrive in a post-apocalyptic world. Knowledge of animal husbandry can provide endless amounts of sustainable meat, eggs, and milk to you and your tribe.
5. Construction: Construction skills will be very important in a shattered civilization. These skills, especially without power tools, are not something you learn overnight. If you have some basic skills it may be worth learning a few techniques for building small structures with crude hand tools. There are many books teaching anyone how to build basic cabins, sheds, and composting outhouses.
6. Alternative Energy and Fuels: Having the knowledge to implement alternative energy systems will make you a wealthy survivor in a “dark” world. You can learn to build your own alternative energy systems, or you can purchase back up solar generators in preparation for emergencies. There are also small fuel refinery systems available like the biodiesel Fuelmeister, and the new invention from Japan that turns plastic into oil. Knowledge of how to create energy would be invaluable when oil is scarce.
7. Water Purification: Since it’s difficult to pump well water without electricity and with surface water likely to be contaminated, clean water will be in very limited supply. Learning to purify water will allow you thrive during this time. You can also purchase water filters for your go-bag that will last weeks, and you can have back-up tablets should you need them. However, the skill and knowledge to purify water should be the goal as that can never run out.
8. Basic First Aid and Natural Medicine: This is another skill that can take years to develop and learn, but that will be crucial when supply lines of pharmaceuticals are cut off and hospitals are over-run. Knowledge of growing herbal gardens for making medicine at home will prove to be very important. Learning basic procedures for stitching wounds, CPR, and more will also be of great assistance. Being the tribe’s shaman with a natural medicine chest is a prestigious position
9. Mechanics: Mechanics for cars, motorcycles, tractors and other machinery will likely be in high demand. In addition, bicycle mechanics will also fair well in world where fuel is very expensive or hard to come by. These are also skills that are not learned over night, but it will be wise to at least have access to books or how-to videos.
10. Soap and Candle Making: With long supply lines decimated and electricity on the fritz, soap and candle makers will provide a valuable product. Clearly some preparation of storing raw materials may be needed to achieve trade-able levels of these goods. Even if you just had the knowledge to make soap or candles just for your immediate tribe, you will be much better off for it.
You’ll notice that many of these skills also fall into the category of what you would need to be self-sufficient. Again, learning all of these skills will be virtually impossible, especially if the collapse isn’t that far off as many predict. Determine which skills that most appeal to you and focus on them by studying and acquiring the tools needed. Since you can’t become an expert in everything it may be wise to recruit tribe members with various survival skills. It will also be beneficial to build up your library of “how to” books and videos for tasks that you are not proficient in. You can download any video from Youtube by using Keepvid.com and build your library into an external hard drive.
Remember, knowledge of and skills to produce human necessities will be the only form of wealth creation in a hand-made world. Knowledge is something that no one can take from you. It’s the eternal wealth that will help you thrive in a Post-Collapse world. Get Prepared Now!
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
hydrogen peroxide and it's uses
Did you also know bleach was invented in the late 40's? It's chlorine, folks! And it was used to kill our Troops. Peroxide was invented during WWI in the 20's. It was used to save and help cleanse the needs of our troops and hospitals.
Please think about this:
1. Take one capful Peroxide (the little white cap that comes with the bottle) and hold in your mouth for 10 minutes daily, then spit it out. (I do it when I bathe.) No more canker sores, and your teeth will be whiter without expensive pastes. Use it instead of mouthwash.
2. Let your toothbrushes soak in a cup of peroxide to keep them free of germs.
3. Clean your counters and table tops with peroxide to kill germs and leave a fresh smell. Simply put a little on your dishrag when you wipe, or spray it on the counters.
4. After rinsing off your wooden cutting board, pour peroxide on it to kill salmonella and other bacteria.
5. Do you have fungus on your feet? Sprayed a 50/50 mixture of peroxide and water on them (especially the toes) every night and let dry.
6. Soak any infections or cuts in 3% peroxide for five to ten minutes several times a day. My husband has seen gangrene that would not heal with any medicine but was
healed by soaking in peroxide.
7. Fill a spray bottle with a 50/50 mixture of peroxide and water and keep it in every bathroom to disinfect without harming your septic system the way bleach or most other
disinfectants will.
8. Tilt your head back and spray into nostrils with your 50/50 mixture whenever you have a cold or plugged sinus. It will bubble and help to kill the bacteria. Hold for a few minutes, and then blow your nose into a tissue.
9. If you have a terrible toothache and cannot get to a dentist right away, put a capful of 3% peroxide into your mouth and hold it for ten minutes several times a day. The pain will lessen greatly.
10. And of course, if you like a natural look to your hair, spray the 50/50 solution on your wet hair after a shower and comb it through. You will not have the peroxide-burnt blonde
hair like the hair dye packages but more natural highlights if your hair is a light brown, reddish, or dirty blonde. It also lightens gradually, so it's not a drastic change.
11. Put half a bottle of peroxide in your bath to help get rid of boils, fungus, or other skin infections.
12. You can also add a cup of peroxide instead of bleach to a load of whites in your laundry to whiten them. If there is blood on clothing, pour it directly on the soiled spot. Let it sit for a minute, then rub it and rinse with cold water. Repeat if necessary.
13. I use peroxide to clean my mirrors. There is no smearing, which is why I love it so much for this.
14. Another place it's great is in the bathroom, if someone has been careless & has peed on the floor around the toilet & it's begun to smell of urine. Just put some
peroxide in a spray bottle & spray. In the blink of any eye all the smell will be gone & the bacteria eliminated!
I could go on and on. It is a little brown bottle no home should be without! With prices of most necessities rising, I'm glad there's a way to save tons of money in such a simple, healthy manner!'
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
Please think about this:
1. Take one capful Peroxide (the little white cap that comes with the bottle) and hold in your mouth for 10 minutes daily, then spit it out. (I do it when I bathe.) No more canker sores, and your teeth will be whiter without expensive pastes. Use it instead of mouthwash.
2. Let your toothbrushes soak in a cup of peroxide to keep them free of germs.
3. Clean your counters and table tops with peroxide to kill germs and leave a fresh smell. Simply put a little on your dishrag when you wipe, or spray it on the counters.
4. After rinsing off your wooden cutting board, pour peroxide on it to kill salmonella and other bacteria.
5. Do you have fungus on your feet? Sprayed a 50/50 mixture of peroxide and water on them (especially the toes) every night and let dry.
6. Soak any infections or cuts in 3% peroxide for five to ten minutes several times a day. My husband has seen gangrene that would not heal with any medicine but was
healed by soaking in peroxide.
7. Fill a spray bottle with a 50/50 mixture of peroxide and water and keep it in every bathroom to disinfect without harming your septic system the way bleach or most other
disinfectants will.
8. Tilt your head back and spray into nostrils with your 50/50 mixture whenever you have a cold or plugged sinus. It will bubble and help to kill the bacteria. Hold for a few minutes, and then blow your nose into a tissue.
9. If you have a terrible toothache and cannot get to a dentist right away, put a capful of 3% peroxide into your mouth and hold it for ten minutes several times a day. The pain will lessen greatly.
10. And of course, if you like a natural look to your hair, spray the 50/50 solution on your wet hair after a shower and comb it through. You will not have the peroxide-burnt blonde
hair like the hair dye packages but more natural highlights if your hair is a light brown, reddish, or dirty blonde. It also lightens gradually, so it's not a drastic change.
11. Put half a bottle of peroxide in your bath to help get rid of boils, fungus, or other skin infections.
12. You can also add a cup of peroxide instead of bleach to a load of whites in your laundry to whiten them. If there is blood on clothing, pour it directly on the soiled spot. Let it sit for a minute, then rub it and rinse with cold water. Repeat if necessary.
13. I use peroxide to clean my mirrors. There is no smearing, which is why I love it so much for this.
14. Another place it's great is in the bathroom, if someone has been careless & has peed on the floor around the toilet & it's begun to smell of urine. Just put some
peroxide in a spray bottle & spray. In the blink of any eye all the smell will be gone & the bacteria eliminated!
I could go on and on. It is a little brown bottle no home should be without! With prices of most necessities rising, I'm glad there's a way to save tons of money in such a simple, healthy manner!'
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
55 PREPAREDNESS ITEMS TO GET YOU THINKING
1. Toilet paper, and other sanitation items such as feminine hygiene products, diapers for infants, etc. These are items that should be mass stored if possible.
2. Paper Towels. Too many uses to mention, store as many as you can.
3. Coffee filters. For those drinkers of coffee of course, but these are excellent filters for many other purposes.
4. Trash bags. All sizes. You can also store many free plastic grocery bags from the store everytime you get them after shopping. Important for bagging up refuse and preventing disease.
5. Zip up type plastic freezer bags. Lot of uses.
6. Ice coolers, various sizes. If you have room, can be used to keep things cool or cold, but also used to keep items from freezing in very
cold weather.
7. Shovels. All sizes from small garden type to those used for digging. Very important to have after a disaster.
8. Kitchen items. Sponges and other scratchy pads. You are likely not going to have a dishwasher after a disaster and you have to have some means of cleaning pots, pans, dishes.
9. Cotton balls. First aid uses, putting cotton in ears of people that need their ears protected from the cold, etc.
10. Paper to write on. This includes note pads, index cards.
11. Pens and pencils, especially the click pencil type that don’t need a sharpener.
12. Rubber bands. This also includes hair bands. Used to keep items organized and from flying apart.
13. Tape. All kinds from duct, masking, electric, to scotch. Many uses.
14. Hand sewing materials. Threads, needles, buttons, zippers, you are going to need them.
15. Matches. Keep them dry and store lots of them.
16. Salt. You won’t believe in certain areas how hard it is to get this necessary mineral for survival. Store as much as you can.
17. Aluminum wrap. Good for cooking and many other uses.
18. Candles. All sizes. Not only for light at night, but can be used to heat small items up in small cookware.
19. Hand operated can openers. Without many of these you will have a bad time trying to get your canned food out.
20. Basic Tools. This includes hammers, screwdrivers, saws, axes, utility knives, scissors. Anything extra that you can store from your
tool chest.
21. Small hardware. Nails, screws, hooks, wires, etc. Store in clear jars with lids or in original packages.
22. 5 or 6 gallon plastic gas containers. Can be used for gas or other fuels as well as for water that are durable.
23. Magnifying glasses. Use to see small items, main use to start fire if matches are wet or out of them.
24. Envelopes. All sizes for storage. Smaller for seeds you can get from the wild as one example. Tough postal envelopes are also good for storage after a disaster.
25. Empty boxes. You are really going to need this if you have to suddenly move somewhere quick for clothes and other items. Many grocery stores will give you free fruit boxes that are sturdy and have lids. Also large plastic boxes with lids. Try to store empty boxes within the empty spaces of each other.
26. Shoe laces. Many people have shoes that are still wearable and need shoe laces. Shoe laces are also good for tying off material with other purposes.
27. Paper plates, plastic eating utensils, disposaable drinking glasses and cups. IF you can store enough, excellent way to save your soap supplies by not having to wash the dishes.
28. Bedding. Blankets, sheets, pillows, pillow cases. Just because you are in emergency does not mean you have to live like a refuge.
29. Bathroom towels. All sizes from hand to bath. You will be very grateful to be able to dry yourself off with something you are use to.
30. Fishing line and string. Lots of uses.
31. Nylon rope, cord, clothes lines. Do not be without.
32. Dental needs. Toothbrushes, dental floss. Even without toothpaste you can still keep your teeth healthy.
33. Q-tips. Not only personal use, but uses for fine detailed work.
34. Honey. Lasts practically forever and a good sweetener for many foods.
35. Spray bottles. Use to disperse insect repellent as one of many uses.
36. First aid kit. Most items such as bandages, gauze, tweezers, nail clippers, scissors, wrapping tape, etc. can be stored without rotating.
37. Newspaper. Yes, newspaper for starting fires, wrapping delicate items, insulation. Keep dry and preferably in sealed boxes.
38. Safety pins. Fastening of almost anything that has broken. Bobby pins also good.
39. Cheap plastic sunglasses. You will really need to protect your eyes after an emergency, glare is something that people forget about
if they have to be outdoors for extended periods of time.
40. Hats. One size fits all baseball type caps, scarfs, ski caps. A lot of heat is lost through an uncovered head, also sunburn.
41. Gloves. So important from keeping hands warm to protection of your hands from hazards such as broken glass.
42. Extra clothes that you will not wear other than after a disaster. Don’t forget the extra comfortable shoes, socks, underwear, warm
jackets.
43. Small hand held mirrors. For signaling but also for personal grooming and seeing what your eyes can’t without a mirror.
44. Cloth grocery bags with handles. A very good way of collecting usable things such as food from the wild.
45. Stapler with plenty of staples. Also paper clips to seal off small items and fastening paper. Your package of survival seeds as for
example.
46. Electric extension cords. You may actually still have electricity from some source such as a generator. Can be used as a substitute for light duty style rope also.
47. Brushes. From nail, paint, to hair brushes. One good use for a hair brush is removal of ticks, fleas, burrs, from clothing.
48. Measurement devices. Tape measurers, rulers, very important to know distances, how big, how small something is rather than guessing.
49. Games. Boredom is awful, and a simple deck of cards, boardgames, something to take up time if confined after an emergency.
50. Books, Books. Anything that will give you information and instructions on survival, cooking, plant identification, map books. Your bookcase may not be around after a disaster, store information you will need someday.
51. Wind up clocks and watches. Your battery operate clocks and watches or other time telling instruments are someday not going to
work. Wind up clock better than using a sundial.
52. Snap top plastic containers. Ziploc, Tupperware, anything that can air seal something. All sizes.
53. Stick on notes. Use to label what you have after the disaster. Secure it better with scotch tape if you want.
54. Money. If you can store it somewhere and forget about it and not spend it other then in emergency. Cash money may be the only way to buy anything after a disaster that has not taken out the monetary system.
55. Plastic tarps. Many sizes and inexpensive. Cannot emphanize how many uses these have, and can be folded up and stored in smaller spaces.
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
2. Paper Towels. Too many uses to mention, store as many as you can.
3. Coffee filters. For those drinkers of coffee of course, but these are excellent filters for many other purposes.
4. Trash bags. All sizes. You can also store many free plastic grocery bags from the store everytime you get them after shopping. Important for bagging up refuse and preventing disease.
5. Zip up type plastic freezer bags. Lot of uses.
6. Ice coolers, various sizes. If you have room, can be used to keep things cool or cold, but also used to keep items from freezing in very
cold weather.
7. Shovels. All sizes from small garden type to those used for digging. Very important to have after a disaster.
8. Kitchen items. Sponges and other scratchy pads. You are likely not going to have a dishwasher after a disaster and you have to have some means of cleaning pots, pans, dishes.
9. Cotton balls. First aid uses, putting cotton in ears of people that need their ears protected from the cold, etc.
10. Paper to write on. This includes note pads, index cards.
11. Pens and pencils, especially the click pencil type that don’t need a sharpener.
12. Rubber bands. This also includes hair bands. Used to keep items organized and from flying apart.
13. Tape. All kinds from duct, masking, electric, to scotch. Many uses.
14. Hand sewing materials. Threads, needles, buttons, zippers, you are going to need them.
15. Matches. Keep them dry and store lots of them.
16. Salt. You won’t believe in certain areas how hard it is to get this necessary mineral for survival. Store as much as you can.
17. Aluminum wrap. Good for cooking and many other uses.
18. Candles. All sizes. Not only for light at night, but can be used to heat small items up in small cookware.
19. Hand operated can openers. Without many of these you will have a bad time trying to get your canned food out.
20. Basic Tools. This includes hammers, screwdrivers, saws, axes, utility knives, scissors. Anything extra that you can store from your
tool chest.
21. Small hardware. Nails, screws, hooks, wires, etc. Store in clear jars with lids or in original packages.
22. 5 or 6 gallon plastic gas containers. Can be used for gas or other fuels as well as for water that are durable.
23. Magnifying glasses. Use to see small items, main use to start fire if matches are wet or out of them.
24. Envelopes. All sizes for storage. Smaller for seeds you can get from the wild as one example. Tough postal envelopes are also good for storage after a disaster.
25. Empty boxes. You are really going to need this if you have to suddenly move somewhere quick for clothes and other items. Many grocery stores will give you free fruit boxes that are sturdy and have lids. Also large plastic boxes with lids. Try to store empty boxes within the empty spaces of each other.
26. Shoe laces. Many people have shoes that are still wearable and need shoe laces. Shoe laces are also good for tying off material with other purposes.
27. Paper plates, plastic eating utensils, disposaable drinking glasses and cups. IF you can store enough, excellent way to save your soap supplies by not having to wash the dishes.
28. Bedding. Blankets, sheets, pillows, pillow cases. Just because you are in emergency does not mean you have to live like a refuge.
29. Bathroom towels. All sizes from hand to bath. You will be very grateful to be able to dry yourself off with something you are use to.
30. Fishing line and string. Lots of uses.
31. Nylon rope, cord, clothes lines. Do not be without.
32. Dental needs. Toothbrushes, dental floss. Even without toothpaste you can still keep your teeth healthy.
33. Q-tips. Not only personal use, but uses for fine detailed work.
34. Honey. Lasts practically forever and a good sweetener for many foods.
35. Spray bottles. Use to disperse insect repellent as one of many uses.
36. First aid kit. Most items such as bandages, gauze, tweezers, nail clippers, scissors, wrapping tape, etc. can be stored without rotating.
37. Newspaper. Yes, newspaper for starting fires, wrapping delicate items, insulation. Keep dry and preferably in sealed boxes.
38. Safety pins. Fastening of almost anything that has broken. Bobby pins also good.
39. Cheap plastic sunglasses. You will really need to protect your eyes after an emergency, glare is something that people forget about
if they have to be outdoors for extended periods of time.
40. Hats. One size fits all baseball type caps, scarfs, ski caps. A lot of heat is lost through an uncovered head, also sunburn.
41. Gloves. So important from keeping hands warm to protection of your hands from hazards such as broken glass.
42. Extra clothes that you will not wear other than after a disaster. Don’t forget the extra comfortable shoes, socks, underwear, warm
jackets.
43. Small hand held mirrors. For signaling but also for personal grooming and seeing what your eyes can’t without a mirror.
44. Cloth grocery bags with handles. A very good way of collecting usable things such as food from the wild.
45. Stapler with plenty of staples. Also paper clips to seal off small items and fastening paper. Your package of survival seeds as for
example.
46. Electric extension cords. You may actually still have electricity from some source such as a generator. Can be used as a substitute for light duty style rope also.
47. Brushes. From nail, paint, to hair brushes. One good use for a hair brush is removal of ticks, fleas, burrs, from clothing.
48. Measurement devices. Tape measurers, rulers, very important to know distances, how big, how small something is rather than guessing.
49. Games. Boredom is awful, and a simple deck of cards, boardgames, something to take up time if confined after an emergency.
50. Books, Books. Anything that will give you information and instructions on survival, cooking, plant identification, map books. Your bookcase may not be around after a disaster, store information you will need someday.
51. Wind up clocks and watches. Your battery operate clocks and watches or other time telling instruments are someday not going to
work. Wind up clock better than using a sundial.
52. Snap top plastic containers. Ziploc, Tupperware, anything that can air seal something. All sizes.
53. Stick on notes. Use to label what you have after the disaster. Secure it better with scotch tape if you want.
54. Money. If you can store it somewhere and forget about it and not spend it other then in emergency. Cash money may be the only way to buy anything after a disaster that has not taken out the monetary system.
55. Plastic tarps. Many sizes and inexpensive. Cannot emphanize how many uses these have, and can be folded up and stored in smaller spaces.
h/t Sharon N Lance Palmer
Monday, October 3, 2011
10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes
Here is a nice stack of different homemade laundry detergent recipes I’ve collected over the years. Do they work? Yes, I’ve had good luck with them.
At the time I was using homemade detergent, we had a relative who was in trade school living with us. Every day he was mechanic grease from head to toe–the clothes cleaned up nice!Making your own laundry detergent is a discipline and it’s not for everyone, but it definitely saves money–sometimes just costing pennies a load!
First Some Tips:
1 quart Water (boiling)
2 cups Bar soap (grated)
2 cups Borax
2 cups Washing Soda
Hot water
1 cup Washing Soda
1/2 cup Borax
1 Soap bar
Hot water
1/2 cup Washing Soda
1/2 cup Borax
1/3 bar Soap (grated)
2 cups Fels Naptha Soap (finely grated – you could also try the other bar soaps listed at the top)
1 cup Washing Soda
1 cup Borax
Hot water
1 bar (4.5 oz) Ivory Soap – grated
1 cup Washing Soda
2.5 gallons Water (hot)
1 Bar soap (grated)
3/4 cup Washing Soda
3/4 cup Borax
2 TBS Glycerin
2 cups Bar soap (grated)
2 cups Washing Soda
2 – 2.5 gallons hot water
2 gallons Water (hot)
1 bar Soap (grated)
2 cups Baking soda (yes baking soda this time–not washing soda)
12 cups Borax
8 cups Baking Soda
8 cups Washing Soda
8 cups Bar soap (grated)
1 cup Vinegar (white)
1 cup Baking Soda
1 cup Washing Soda
1/4 cup liquid castile soap
*If you can’t find Fels-Naptha locally, you can buy it online (check Amazon).
Essential oil ideas: lavender, rosemary, tea tree oil
Tipnut's Homemade Laundry Detergent
First Some Tips:
- For the bar soaps required in the recipes, you could try Fels-Naptha, Ivory soap, Sunlight bar soap, Kirk’s Hardwater Castile, and Zote. Don’t use heavily perfumed soaps.
- Washing Soda and Borax can normally be found in the laundry and cleaning aisles.
- Some people with really hard water or well water may have to adjust the recipes if the clothes look dingy.
- Although several of the recipes have the same ingredients, the measurements are different–some contain a higher soap to water ratio. Test and see which works best for your laundry needs.
- You can make huge pails of this at once, or smaller quantities. Also if you can get your hands on a few empty liquid laundry detergent bottles they work great for storing the detergent. Just make a big batch and pour in bottles, cap then use as needed–shake before use.
- Some of the recipes call for large amounts of water. Check with a local restaurant to see if they have any empty large pails from deep fryer oil–that’s how many restaurants buy the oil. See if you can have one or two of the pails after they’ve emptied it–just wash them out really well before using. They’re big, heavy plastic and very sturdy when stirring the soap and hot water.
10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes
Recipe #11 quart Water (boiling)
2 cups Bar soap (grated)
2 cups Borax
2 cups Washing Soda
- Add finely grated bar soap to the boiling water and stir until soap is melted. You can keep on low heat until soap is melted.
- Pour the soap water into a large, clean pail and add the Borax and Washing Soda. Stir well until all is dissolved.
- Add 2 gallons of water, stir until well mixed.
- Cover pail and use 1/4 cup for each load of laundry. Stir the soap each time you use it (will gel).
Hot water
1 cup Washing Soda
1/2 cup Borax
1 Soap bar
- Grate the bar soap and add to a large saucepan with hot water. Stir over medium-low heat until soap dissolves and is melted.
- Fill a 10 gallon pail half full of hot water. Add the melted soap, Borax and Washing soda, stir well until all powder is dissolved. Top the pail up with more hot water.
- Use 1 cup per load, stirring soap before each use (will gel).
Hot water
1/2 cup Washing Soda
1/2 cup Borax
1/3 bar Soap (grated)
- In a large pot, heat 3 pints of water. Add the grated bar soap and stir until melted. Then add the washing soda and borax. Stir until powder is dissolved, then remove from heat.
- In a 2 gallon clean pail, pour 1 quart of hot water and add the heated soap mixture. Top pail with cold water and stir well.
- Use 1/2 cup per load, stirring soap before each use (will gel).
2 cups Fels Naptha Soap (finely grated – you could also try the other bar soaps listed at the top)1 cup Washing Soda
1 cup Borax
- Mix well and store in an airtight plastic container.
- Use 2 tablespoons per full load.
Hot water
1 bar (4.5 oz) Ivory Soap – grated
1 cup Washing Soda
- In a large saucepan add grated soap and enough hot water to cover. Heat over medium-low heat and stir until soap is melted.
- Fill a large pail with 2.5 gallons of hot water, add hot soap mixture. Stir until well mixed.
- Then add the washing soda, again stirring until well mixed.
- Set aside to cool.
- Use 1/2 cup per full load, stirring well before each use (will gel)
2.5 gallons Water (hot)
1 Bar soap (grated)
3/4 cup Washing Soda
3/4 cup Borax
2 TBS Glycerin
- Melt bar soap over medium-low heat topped with water, stir until soap is melted.
- In a large pail, pour 2.5 gallons of hot water, add melted soap mixture, washing soda, borax and glycerin. Mix well.
- Use 1/2 cup per full load.
2 cups Bar soap (grated)
2 cups Washing Soda
2 – 2.5 gallons hot water
- Melt grated soap in saucepan with water to cover. Heat over medium-low heat and stir until soap is dissolved.
- Pour hot water in large pail, add hot soap and washing soda. Stir very well.
- Use 1 cup per full load.
2 gallons Water (hot)
1 bar Soap (grated)
2 cups Baking soda (yes baking soda this time–not washing soda)
- Melt grated soap in a saucepan with enough hot water to cover. Cook on medium-low heat, stirring frequently until soap is melted.
- In a large pail, pour 2 gallons hot water. Add melted soap, stir well.
- Then add the baking soda, stir well again.
- Use 1/2 cup per full load, 1 cup per very soiled load.
12 cups Borax8 cups Baking Soda
8 cups Washing Soda
8 cups Bar soap (grated)
- Mix all ingredients well and store in a sealed tub.
- Use 1/8 cup of powder per full load.
1 cup Vinegar (white)1 cup Baking Soda
1 cup Washing Soda
1/4 cup liquid castile soap
- Mix well and store in sealed container.
- I find it easiest to pour the liquid soap into the bowl first, stirred in the washing soda, then baking soda, then added the vinegar in small batches at a time (the recipe foams up at first). The mixture is a thick paste at first that will break down into a heavy powdered detergent, just keep stirring. There may be some hard lumps, try to break them down when stirring (it really helps to make sure the baking soda isn’t clumpy when first adding). I used 1/2 cup per full load with great results.
Liquid Detergents Note
Soap will be lumpy, goopy and gel-like. This is normal. Just give it a good stir before using. Make sure soap is covered with a lid when not in use. You could also pour the homemade soap in old (and cleaned) laundry detergent bottles and shake well before each use.*If you can’t find Fels-Naptha locally, you can buy it online (check Amazon).
Optional
You can add between 10 to 15 drops of essential oil (per 2 gallons) to your homemade laundry detergent. Add once the soap has cooled to room temperature. Stir well and cover.Essential oil ideas: lavender, rosemary, tea tree oil
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